The Legendary Mekong River
The Mekong is an ancient natural treasure of Southeast Asia, particularly in Cambodia. Its name comes from the combination of the Khmer words: មេ Maé + គង្គ Kôngk, which means "Mother of Waters." The river, whose length is disputed and estimated between 4,350 and 4,900 kilometers depending on its source, flows through six countries: China, Myanmar, Thailand, Laos, Cambodia, and Vietnam. It serves as a lifeline for 60 million people who live along its banks and rely on industries like fishing and rice farming. In addition to the majority populations from these countries, more than 90 ethnicities and minorities reside along the Mekong.
Fishing is the primary activity for these inhabitants, and by far the most important. Fish, seafood, mollusks, and other creatures captured and consumed in the thousands of villages along the river represent 80% of the protein consumed. The Mekong River Basin contributes 2% of global fishing, a staggering figure for a river.
This legendary river flows through Cambodia from north to south for more than 480 kilometers, from the swirling currents at the Laos border of Si Phan Don to the Vietnamese border. The Mekong has been an integral part of the country's culture for millennia, particularly in the six provinces it traverses: Phnom Penh, Kandal, Prey Veng, Kampong Cham, Steung Treng, and Kratié. The sections of the Mekong in the latter two regions are globally known for the presence of Irrawaddy dolphins.
A history linked to France and the Indochinese Protectorates
In the aftermath of the Indochina War (1946-1954), the phrase "remonter le Mékong" (to travel up the Mekong) became popular among French soldiers returning from the front. It symbolized recalling shared experiences that new generations could not understand. However, the phrase did not enjoy widespread popularity, as Charles Aznavour erased it from public consciousness about fifteen years later with his famous song La Bohème, where he immortalized the line: "Je vous parle d’un temps que les moins de 20 ans ne peuvent pas connaître."
Nonetheless, the phrase was inspired by the Western fantasies of exoticism, fully indulged by numerous European adventurers and explorers. The Portuguese first ventured from the Vietnamese delta in the 16th century, followed by the Dutch, before the French showed interest in the region. Botanists, explorers, naturalists, and historians traveled to the area in the second half of the 19th century, fascinated by the vastness of the river, which seemed to grow in length as more discoveries were made. After establishing a protectorate in Cambodia in 1863, explorers led by Ernest Doudart de Lagrée, accompanied by writer Francis Garnier, attempted to ascend the Mekong, successfully reaching Luang Prabang. Three decades later, a new French protectorate was established in the region. However, few of these curious individuals ventured beyond China's Yunnan region.
Many accounts emerged, introducing the Mekong to Europe and cementing the myth of a colossal river that crosses a vast region of the globe and a part of the Asian continent. Today, it ranks as the 10th-largest river in the world by discharge. While its exact source remains uncertain, its length places it between 8th and 11th worldwide. In 2013, Swiss and Dutch explorers Luciano Lepre and Peter Neele demonstrated that its source is located higher than previously believed.
The river celebrated every year
Closely linked to both popular culture and ancient traditions, the Mekong is now the subject of numerous local and national celebrations. For example, during the Water Festival held every November, the capital Phnom Penh is filled for four days as residents from Cambodian provinces gather to watch boat races. This marks the change in the direction of the Tonlé Sap River, a Mekong tributary. The confluence between the two is located in Phnom Penh, where the Tonlé Sap flows from its namesake lake, the largest in Southeast Asia, into the Mekong. Six months later, in May, as the Mekong swells, it feeds the Tonlé Sap, which then flows back to its source for the next six months. This cycle, continuing for millennia, regulates the lives and behaviors of people living along these rivers.
The 25 provinces of Cambodia compete on the river, cheered on by supporters on the bridges and riverbanks. Competitors train for several months a year in their villages for the event. Sometimes in the water, sometimes on land when logistics are insufficient. Some provinces, such as Prey Veng, Kampong Cham, Kampong Chhnang, and Kampong Thom, are much more represented than others among the 400 boats that sign up for the various races. It is no surprise that these regions are heavily involved, as they are traversed by both the Mekong and the Tonlé Sap, making training in the currents easier. The event is extremely popular and is broadcasted by most local and international media.
A natural divide
The Mekong literally divides Cambodia into two. One much larger part to the west and a smaller part to the east. Only three road bridges currently allow crossing this river: the Mekong Bridge in Stung Treng, the Kizuna Bridge in Kampong Cham, the Prek Tamak Bridge in Kandal, and the Neak Luong Bridge in Prey Veng. These are the only points for road passage to the east of the country. Of course, river transport has been in full swing for a long time, enabling crossings from one bank to the other. In Phnom Penh, you can even cross the river by leaving your motorcycle, car, or tuk-tuk on the ferry bridge!
